I woke with the rising sun at 5:15 am, ugh. Four hours of sleep is not enough, but it was hard to stay asleep with the car door slamming noises as well. People started lining up for tickets shortly before 6 am with the offices opening at 6:50 am for the first bus departure at 7:30 am. The Alpine Route stretches across the mountains between Nagano and Toyama. There are several different modes of transportation you take and the whole journey across can take 7 hours with waiting times. I was only going as far as Murodo where Japan’s highest altitude hotel and onsen were, and where the famous snow corridor was. Due to the lack of snow, this year it was only 13 m high instead of the usual 17-19 m. This was probably the best website I’ve encountered in Japan in terms of English information. Everything but the timetables had been translated.
I wanted to get here super early because the crowds were supposed to be intense as it was the weekend after the opening weekend. They estimated over one hour waiting lines at each station. No thank you.
It was pretty warm out already in the sun, but I wore a lot of layers anyway with my snow pants. I joined the line at about 6 am, and ate my breakfast there. I had bought food ahead of time although they sold things at a station shop (at a higher price). Many other Japanese people were waiting along with loads of skiers and snowboarders. There’s no ski resort, but plenty of places to go backcountry. It’s always impressive to me to watch people strap them on to their packs and hike with that weight. I easily got my ticket for a round trip between Ogizawa station and Murodo and took my spot in the next line for the first part of the transportation chain, riding the trolley bus.
Electric buses are rare in Japan. Unlike Czech Republic, where the inner city of Plzen was filled with them, this is the only trolleybus line in all of Japan. Plenty of Japanese tourists were eagerly taking pictures of the buses. The tunnels through the mountain took years to complete and claimed many lives. After waiting about 5 minutes, and catching the first bus at 7:30 am, we unloaded at Kurobe Dam 15 minutes later. It’s like the Hoover Dam of Japan and is the tallest one here. I climbed the many stairs to emerge from underground on the observation deck. The views were stunning. Seeing snow capped mountains is my favorite. I then descended a bazillion stairs to walk across the dam to the next station and wait in line again.
The next round of waiting took about 10-15 minutes before I managed to get on the cable car. The cable car took 5 minutes before we were at the next station, Kurobedaira. They handed us a number to tell us when we could get on the ropeway to help keep the lines down. In the meantime, I went to the deck observatory and got my photo taken at the altitude marker. The temperature was still pretty warm here although there was snow all around. After a quick 5 minute ride on the ropeway - with amazing views - I switched to another trolley bus at the next station. Again it only took about 10 minutes waiting before I could board and another 10 minute ride, before I finally arrived at my destination, Murodo!
I arrived at about 9 am at the already crowded station. It was rather confusing to find my way out towards the snow corridor. It was finally cooler at this altitude, 2450 m (8000 ft). Following the stream of people down the street, I encountered the highest part of the snow corridor, 13 meters tall this year. I got the famous bus shot with the snow towering overhead. Some years the snow is 17-19 m tall! It’s really cool to see the stratification patterns where the snow has melted and refrozen over winter. Next, I stopped by to catch a glimpse of the lake that was still completely frozen. I put on my crampons at this point because there was plenty of snow on the ground and I was slipping everywhere in my hiking boots. Interestingly enough, the top layer was kinda crusty and melted so you didn’t sink through like with the powder at Mt. Asama.
My goal was to summit Mt. Oyama, the main peak of the Tateyama range, at 3000 m. I wore too many layers and got hot quickly. It was slow going and rather steep up the first bit. You had to be careful not to slip. I made it to the mountain hut at 2700 m (a rise of 300 m from my starting point) and ate lunch. The wind was really strong at this peak so then I was thankful for all my layers! I was accompanied by some skiers, snowshoers, hikers, and snowboarders. Had a nice conversation with one guy and his group as we climbed at about the same speed. One again, they were surprised to hear that I was hiking by myself.
I started the last bit of ascent. It was extremely rocky and more like the bouldering I was used to in Maine. The patches of snow, ice, and bare rock made it tricky with the crampons. I really need the full on 6-8 point spike ones. Suddenly, the cloud cover started coming in pretty quickly and whiting out everything. Soon I could barely see in front of me. I decided to turn around at this point. It cleared a little bit, but after the partial descent I had started, I realized I was ill equipped. It was incredibly difficult going down. One of the hardest things I’ve done. My shoes didn’t grip at all and I slid a lot. I can’t imagine doing it much further than the short distance I managed. The rest of the way back was easy enough as it was just sliding down on snow for short bits. You had to watch out for hollows and cracks under the snow though.
I made it back to the hotel (the highest altitude hotel in Japan). I wanted to go to the onsen (also the highest altitude one), but mother nature had determined it was not to be. After buying some omiyage, I began the journey back. Hordes of people had flooded the route and my wait times were bad, but not awful. Most people were going in the opposite direction. I’ve never been so glad I started early. I made it back to my car and got ready to do the drive back on local roads. I ended up stopping in Ueda at a FamilyMart around 6 pm to take a nap. I was so tired from the lack of sleep last night. I could barely keep my eyes open while driving. The one hour nap rejuvenated me and I finally got home at 9 pm. What a successful, fun trip!
Side note: The next day I realized I had forgotten my glasses there! I must have left them in the restroom in the morning when I put my contacts in. I contacted the staff via the website and they got back to me saying they found them! They even wrapped them up nicely and mailed them to me by pay on delivery. Yay!
Electric buses are rare in Japan. Unlike Czech Republic, where the inner city of Plzen was filled with them, this is the only trolleybus line in all of Japan. Plenty of Japanese tourists were eagerly taking pictures of the buses. The tunnels through the mountain took years to complete and claimed many lives. After waiting about 5 minutes, and catching the first bus at 7:30 am, we unloaded at Kurobe Dam 15 minutes later. It’s like the Hoover Dam of Japan and is the tallest one here. I climbed the many stairs to emerge from underground on the observation deck. The views were stunning. Seeing snow capped mountains is my favorite. I then descended a bazillion stairs to walk across the dam to the next station and wait in line again.
I arrived at about 9 am at the already crowded station. It was rather confusing to find my way out towards the snow corridor. It was finally cooler at this altitude, 2450 m (8000 ft). Following the stream of people down the street, I encountered the highest part of the snow corridor, 13 meters tall this year. I got the famous bus shot with the snow towering overhead. Some years the snow is 17-19 m tall! It’s really cool to see the stratification patterns where the snow has melted and refrozen over winter. Next, I stopped by to catch a glimpse of the lake that was still completely frozen. I put on my crampons at this point because there was plenty of snow on the ground and I was slipping everywhere in my hiking boots. Interestingly enough, the top layer was kinda crusty and melted so you didn’t sink through like with the powder at Mt. Asama.
My goal was to summit Mt. Oyama, the main peak of the Tateyama range, at 3000 m. I wore too many layers and got hot quickly. It was slow going and rather steep up the first bit. You had to be careful not to slip. I made it to the mountain hut at 2700 m (a rise of 300 m from my starting point) and ate lunch. The wind was really strong at this peak so then I was thankful for all my layers! I was accompanied by some skiers, snowshoers, hikers, and snowboarders. Had a nice conversation with one guy and his group as we climbed at about the same speed. One again, they were surprised to hear that I was hiking by myself.
I started the last bit of ascent. It was extremely rocky and more like the bouldering I was used to in Maine. The patches of snow, ice, and bare rock made it tricky with the crampons. I really need the full on 6-8 point spike ones. Suddenly, the cloud cover started coming in pretty quickly and whiting out everything. Soon I could barely see in front of me. I decided to turn around at this point. It cleared a little bit, but after the partial descent I had started, I realized I was ill equipped. It was incredibly difficult going down. One of the hardest things I’ve done. My shoes didn’t grip at all and I slid a lot. I can’t imagine doing it much further than the short distance I managed. The rest of the way back was easy enough as it was just sliding down on snow for short bits. You had to watch out for hollows and cracks under the snow though.
After school today, at 7 pm, we had our welcome and goodbye enkai in Takasaki at the Georgian House. It’s a fancy place, designed in a British style, that serves French food. Everyone was having parties there including S’s school so I swung by the station to pick him up. I got to see Ichigo-sensei again! Wah! She’s so lively, it’s fantastic. She had been back to cook for the handball girls and they were concerned for me. Guess they felt the rockiness with the JTE now teaching them. Whoops, but it’s quite sweet. It’s been an adjustment. It was a night of good food and I got to chat with another teacher N-sensei. With a mix of English and Japanese, it was nice to get to know her better.
Papa forgot to turn his alarm off so up he went at 6:15 am. I manage to doze off again for a bit while he showered. We ended up heading downstairs pretty early for breakfast. My good mornings apparently convinced the staff enough that I understood Japanese so I got the buffet explanation in Japanese, whoo. It was really yummy! Made to order pancakes, waffles, and eggs, smoothies, salad, fruit, yogurt, bread, and other breakfast items. I ate a ton. We checked out shortly before 10 am and I said my goodbyes at the station. They headed off to the airport and I got on a train to Kyoto again. (I didn’t check their train schedule, and apparently they got on the wrong train!)
My first stop was the KyoAni shop on the outskirts. The studios for Kyoto Animation are also there - they make Free!. The shop was absolute heaven. I’ve never seen so much beautiful Free! things in one spot before. All the posters as well. I manage to restrict myself to a mousepad, postcard sketches that came in an eight pack, and a pin of Makoto. If only I had more money… There were two other girls already browsing when I came, and they were still busy when I left, ha. Next up was the Kyoto Pokemon Center - center #5 for me. It was really tricky to find. It had just opened a week or so ago, and there were no signs nor was it on google maps. I managed to find out it was inside of a Takashimaya department store on the 5F. Even then I thought I was wrong, because I had to wandered through the whole floor before I found the center. It was definitely small and tucked away.
The temperature kept as I took the bus to Nanzenji Temple. I came in via a back way through old streets filled with traditional Japanese villas. The Buddhist temple itself was amazing. Everything had just sprouted and was a fantastic shade of bright green. The temple grounds were huge and extremely restful. There are several buildings you can pay to enter, but I only went inside the main temple building that has some famous rock gardens. I sat by the garden for a while, relaxing. There’s also a brick aqueduct from the Meiji era on the grounds which seems out of place next to the temple buildings.
From Nanzenji, I walked to Heian shrine, past the zoo, a huge toori gate, and the art museum. I took a break in a park by the shrine. All the walking and heat. The shrine itself was modeled after the imperial palace. Afterward, I walked over to Chion-in, a huge Buddhist temple complex. I entered via a tucked away path lined with lanterns. Took another break here and relaxed in the sun with a tank top on. The hottest day yet! Apparently the temple was closed for a private event, but some others and I were in the middle of exploring and exiting. There were almost no people till I came out by the main entrance and temple. Most of the grounds were under construction so it wasn’t that interesting. I then walked through another park and Yasaka shrine to emerge back at Shijo Dori shopping street. 
At midnight, I boarded the bus for Kyoto. Once again I got little sleep, but managed to feel awake enough upon arrival. I planned to meet my dad and his two work colleagues at 8 am in Kyoto station. After changing clothes (from freezing Tomioka to 75 degrees Kyoto) and dropping my stuff off in a locker - where I had to pay twice because I locked my phone inside - I killed time at McDonald’s. It was the only place open before 7 am with outlets. Yum, egg mcmuffin and hash browns. City shock - already the guy taking my order spoke English to me. I found Papa and his colleagues easily enough by the west gates as his head towered over the others. It didn’t feel like we hadn’t seen each other in 9 months.
We had such great weather too! It actually got really hot in the sun. We made a pit stop to buy some sunscreen, before finding lunch. They wanted to eat ramen so with the help of tabelog, I found a tiny ramen shop. It was very traditional with counter seats only, run by a couple, serving their family recipe. They were so friendly! She helped us order outside with the pictures on the door, although I could actually read the menu. Moments like this make me realize my progress. Last September, I was helpless, and now I actually know katakana and some kanji. One of my dad’s coworkers is from China so she knew kanji well. We got a delicious, filling lunch. So much food as per usual. The sweet owner kept offering us extra pickled things, and showing us how to eat the food with the raw egg.
