At midnight, I boarded the bus for Kyoto. Once again I got little sleep, but managed to feel awake enough upon arrival. I planned to meet my dad and his two work colleagues at 8 am in Kyoto station. After changing clothes (from freezing Tomioka to 75 degrees Kyoto) and dropping my stuff off in a locker - where I had to pay twice because I locked my phone inside - I killed time at McDonald’s. It was the only place open before 7 am with outlets. Yum, egg mcmuffin and hash browns. City shock - already the guy taking my order spoke English to me. I found Papa and his colleagues easily enough by the west gates as his head towered over the others. It didn’t feel like we hadn’t seen each other in 9 months.

We headed to the bus depot where we bought day bus passes for everyone before boarding the bus to Ginkakuji, the silver temple. We got there shortly after it opened so it was crowd-free! Last time I had been here was during Silver Week, and there were so little people this time, it was even more peaceful.Then we walked back to a bus stop along the Philosopher's Path. The sakura were long gone except for a few straggler blossoms. We caught the bus to Nijo Castle. The castle gate was even further under construction this time. The gardens still had some blooming sakura and almond trees.

We had such great weather too! It actually got really hot in the sun. We made a pit stop to buy some sunscreen, before finding lunch. They wanted to eat ramen so with the help of tabelog, I found a tiny ramen shop. It was very traditional with counter seats only, run by a couple, serving their family recipe. They were so friendly! She helped us order outside with the pictures on the door, although I could actually read the menu. Moments like this make me realize my progress. Last September, I was helpless, and now I actually know katakana and some kanji. One of my dad’s coworkers is from China so she knew kanji well. We got a delicious, filling lunch. So much food as per usual. The sweet owner kept offering us extra pickled things, and showing us how to eat the food with the raw egg.

Our next stop was Fushimi Inari shrine. Once again, the lack of people astounded me. It was busy, but not unbearable. We walked partially through the woods and all the little tucked away shrines. Then we headed over to Gion, the old part of Kyoto. We took a break at a matcha cafe that sold the famous Tsujiri matcha products. We didn’t want to wait in line at the other places ha. We each got some ice cream. It was very yummy, but I think my local cafe’s is better! While walking through Gion, there was a lot of traffic and people in uniforms. Apparently there was an old car “race” going on. They drove from Nagoya to Kyoto. Got to see some sweet cars.

We took the bus back to Kyoto station before getting on the rapid train to Osaka. Five minutes after we left, Papa asked me about my luggage. I realized I had forgotten to swing by the locker with my stuff. Whoops. I get off at the one stop the rapid train stops at before Osaka, and take a local train back to Kyoto. Of course, at this point my Suica card was all confused and it didn’t let me through the gates. Luckily, the attendant was sympathetic that I forgot my luggage and had to return and he cleared my card. Finally, I’m back on another local train to Osaka and I get there at 7:10 pm, about an hour later. My dad was staying right by the Shin-Osaka station at a fancy Marriott. I found our room, and we met his colleagues again to head out for dinner at a sushi place.

The English menu is sketchy and the staff barely speaks English, but between their efforts and mine in minimal Japanese, we get our food ordered. It was really yummy! We got a variety of things to share like sushi, sashimi, and tempura. Afterward, Papa and I crashed pretty hard. So exhausted from all the walking and jet lag for him.

The throat tickle I got earlier in the week developed into a full blown sore throat. Nooo. A prepared an amazing breakfast with croissants, pizza toast, oranges, white asparagus soup, and yogurt. She spoils me. We decided not to go to Nara Deer Park today, but to stay in Osaka since I was worried how much time we’d have. We went to Expo Park and Expo City! Expo City is a gigantic shopping complex that had just opened at the end of November.

The complex is about north of the city. After trains and a monorail, we dropped my bag off a locker there. Herds of people streaming from the train station and it was only 10 am! We went to the park first. As soon as you exited the train station, you could see the huge Tower of the Sun. It’s 70 m tall with a diameter of 20 m. Big. The park still had a couple fall leaves left as well. We checked out a waterfall and a cool bridge. The park was huge! The biggest park I’ve seen in Japan so far and quite nice. Many flowers, grass, bird watchers, and families playing. While we were walking, I really started to notice that I had a fever. Got the achy bones feeling, especially in my knees. I just walked slowly and the cool air helped. We spent a little over two hours in the park and only saw a small bit. It was interesting to see the plaques commemorating where countries had their exhibitions back in 1970.

We attempted to get lunch at Expo City. The mass of people had only gotten worse. We found a food area on the map, but each restaurant had ginormous lines. We ended waiting by the Bandai Character Bakery which was Kapibarasan themed. Very cute! After a short wait, we were able to get some food - around 1:30 pm now. I desperately wanted to eat and sit down at this point, whew. After lunch, we passed by the Gundam Cafe, modeled after the one in Akihabara, Tokyo, with two Gundam statues battling it out, and went to the world’s first Pokemon gym. I didn’t pay to enter because it was expensive and you have to pay extra for each game to even participate. Plus it is all in Japanese so I wouldn’t understand anything. I did finally get to take a picture with some Pokemon though!

We stopped by the Osaka English Village where you could practice your English in various situations i.e. as a flight attendant, but again the tickets were so expensive, we decided not to do it. We spent the rest of the day going shopping! I had plenty things to get people for Christmas. The Expo City mall was huge - three floors that were massive. Probably one of the biggest malls I’ve been in. A showed me lots of cool Japanese shops! I got a gift for my gift exchange party next week. I had to keep taking lots of breaks though. The mall was hot and it made my fever feel worse. I ended up buy some medicine and taking it, but it barely had an effect.

The toilets were pretty awesome. They had a whole nursing room for mothers with diaper tables, and a extra toilet room for kids with a small sink and toilet. After about 4 hours, we joined the flood of people leaving. The lights of the tower had been switched on and now it creepily followed us in the dark. We decided to head to Osaka Station to be able to do purikura after dinner. We got conveyor belt sushi in a restaurant that was really tucked away in the station! It took us like 15 minutes to find it. Afterward, we went to HEP FIVE which another mall and entertainment place. They even have a red Ferris wheel on top. A helped me get my first purikura! In the first photo, my face is super unprepared and hair crazy from where I let it out of the bun. Second photo, not much better. It was all so quick! Then you got to decorate your photos while being timed as well. We managed to get a pretty natural looking one. All the options were so extensive. I definitely want to try again now that I’m better prepared. Thanks A for taking me!

We hurried back to the station so that I could catch my train to Kyoto and then catch my night bus home. A came to my train and even waved me goodbye. Wah, my body was done. Once on the bus, I slept 6 hours straight through all the lights and stops, only waking up at 4 am shortly before I had to get off. I biked home, called off from work and fell into bed. Bleh, fevers.

Caught the bus at midnight. I took a two hour nap ahead of time to prepare myself for a night of little sleep. While walking the 20 minutes there, I went through a ‘new’ part of town for me, clearly filled with more bars and a club (?). A lot of people were out and about for Tomioka. There were two buses that came. The first was 10 minutes early and took a family of four. Two other people and I were left waiting. The next bus came 15 minutes late! I feel like nothing is ever late in Japan, but wham. I was told a seat number so good thing I’d learned my numbers by then. The seats had lots of leg room and reclined nicely as did the night bus I rode in Europe.

I slept some, but it was rough. Every two hours the bus stopped at a rest area and turned all the lights on. The two drivers kept switching on and off too. I didn’t see a toilet on the bus either so that’s also probably why they stop. I gave up on sleep around 6 as the sun was bright and shining. We disembarked outside of Kyoto Station at about 6:30 am. So many people! And all the Westerners I saw in the first couple of minutes. The signs were also written in English everywhere. Big city shock for little inaka (country) me. I bought some breakfast (pancake sandwich with bean paste and onigiri) and set off to navigate the station. Definitely wandered around a bit in circles to find the right part. Everything was upstairs! Successfully bought a ticket and caught the train to Osaka. Very interesting to see at the big train stations how everyone properly lines up to enter the train. There are door and car number markers on the ground including lines that you show stand on.

All I can say is that big city life also looks like anime, ha. Herds of people crossing crosswalks at once. Masses at the train station and on the trains and buses. I’m sure it was also extra busy for Silver Week. I met up with Ayaka in Osaka Station (also huge, 15 floors or so, but less tracks than in Munich). It was six months since we last traveled together in the US. So good to see her again! Now we’ve met in North America, Europe, and Asia! We first went to her apartment so I could drop off my stuff. I must say traveling suddenly got a lot faster. No deciphering train signs, waiting for the romaji spelling. Her Japanese transit app told her which platforms to go to as well. I just followed her around.

She’s located about 20 minutes from the main station in a nice neighborhood. We shared a yummy breakfast of croissants from a bakery, oranges, and buckwheat tea. Then we headed off to completely the itinerary. First up, Osaka Castle. We walked through a park from the train station that was filled with sakura trees and a food festival that was hopping despite it only being 10 am. Now that I can identify them, I see them everywhere. Can’t wait for spring! The castle had an outer and inner moat to cross. Certainly an impressive building! The park around it was rather meh. A small Japanese garden was more landscaped but that was it. Perhaps the paid garden area was better, but we didn’t enter. Afterward, we went to have lunch after traipsing through the city a bit to find the nearest train station. We went to a kaiten sushi (conveyor belt) place for my first time. Each plate costs a different amount and you pay based on your empty plates. I tried saba (mackerel) for the first time. So yummy! Now I understand why Haru from Free! is obsessed with it. It was also cool that you made your own tea. They had matcha powder there and a tap which emitted hot water.

Then it was off to stop #2, the Umeda Sky Building. It’s an awesome piece of modern architecture, two skyscrapers joined together built in 1993. We went all the way to the top and had great views of Osaka. Afterward, we went to the Pokémon Center in Osaka Station. I figured I had to satisfy my inner curiosity and check it out for my little bro. There was a special event going on with dancing Pikachus and so much Pokémon stuff. I’d like to go back when it’s less crowded. We had a little bit time to kill before our dinner plans so we popped into a bookstore. Very interesting to see that the books were quite small and all written up and down.

We had a mini Nashville consulate reunion with four of us! We had seven people meet up for dinner at an izakaya with nomihodai (all you can drink). We were lucky to have Ayaka with us. She made the reservation and found a coupon, and helped with all the ordering. I continued to drink my new fav, Calpis. Also tried the alcoholic version, Calpis sour. I finished it, but it was a bit too alcoholic tasting for me. The food was yummy! Ten dishes and so filling. Got to have yakisoba and Osaka’s traditional food: okonomiyaki. We made it home, planned our next day, and Ayaka slept her drinks off. What a fun evening!